Saturday, November 27, 2010

Happy Thanksgiving

26 Novembre 2010
Happy Thanksgiving everyone! I hope that you all had a wonderful Turkey day! I have a great one myself! It was a core day so we were at the training site all day. We had a learning session in the morning about HIV/AIDS awareness and Women's Association groups in Niger that are working to educate people about the disease. In a study done by CDA in 2002, less than 1% of people in Niger were HIV positive. The current percentage is not exactly known, but there isn't a great push to conduct another survey. I don't know if this lack of intent for another survey is due to financial constraints or that HIV/AIDS is not as big of an issue here in Niger as compared to other countries. The session was interesting and important, especially since many of us intend to educate people in our villages about HIV, how it's spread and ways to prevent it. Some project ideas that were discussed included:
-Skits in schools or youth groups
-Having a representative from the Women's Association group come to our village and lead an informational discussion
-Education with specific groups (young women, men, elders, etc.) at the health hut/health clinic in our village
Then we had a Safety and Security session. We learned about the Emergency Action Plan (EAP) for Peace Corps Volunteers in Niger. This is a protocol that we will follow if something happens when we are serving here. This could be anything from a natural disaster to political problems (in Niger or even America). Very critical info to know :)
The afternoon was a ton of fun. In light of the "Salla", holiday in Hausa, we were all given traditional outfits from our host families. We changed into our extravagant outfits and had a fashion show. It was cool to see everyone dressed up in their host mom or dad's best clothes. The fabrics used to make the clothes are all so unique and colorful. For the fashion show, everyone paired up (some men have two wives, when in Niger...) and we walked out and danced for everyone. After, we learned the names for the traditional clothing and what the different models and outfits are called. Certain people then changed into costumes from the various ethnic groups in Niger: Hausa, Zarma, Fulani, Tuareg, and others that I can't remember. Each othese ethnic groups, with exceptions of course, speaks their own language, lives in a certain region of the country and has their own set of customs. The Tuareg for instance are a nomadic group of people and are concentrated mostly in the desert in the north of the country. Tuareg men always cover their heads and carry swords (just in case they come across an animal in the desert we were told). The Tuareg people are nomads so they usually have camels or an assortment of other animals with them.
In the evening, we had a Thanksgiving feast. I was on the Thanksgiving committee and in the afternoon we helped to prepare the food. I didn't do very much, the kitchen staff here is amazing, but it was nice to help with the vegetables for awhile. We had chicken (I don't think there are turkeys in Niger), stuffing, pesto green beans, mixed vegetables, mashed potatoes, and cornbread-style cake. We all ate outside under the stars and it was wonderful to all be together. Our stage has become a family since coming here and I was very grateful to be with them for the holiday. I was thinking about all of you at home, though, and hoping that you were all having a happy Thanksgiving. There is so much to be thankful for: family, friends, laughter. A few other things I am especially thankful for on this Thanksgiving in Niger:
-malaria prophylaxis (even though the Mefloquine gives me crazy dreams)
-my host family (especially petite Razaac with is always chewing on something, be it a dirty flipflop or aluminum sardine can)
-Fullbar (a candy bar that is sold at one of the local Hamdallye stores. I get instant euphoria when I eat it. It costs 50 CFA, the equivalent of a dime).
-The stars. It is calming at night to simply look up at the stars that extent from horizon to horizon. They are a great reminder of why I am here. The full moon recently is beautiful as well.
After we were stuffed with so much food, we had a little dance party and games. The dance party was fun, I am thankful for Lady Gaga :). Currently, we have a new exercise underway called Language Immersion. This is two full weeks of ONLY HAUSA in a village. We are leaving Hamdallye tomorrow and will take a 10/12 hour bus ride to Maradi, and then a bush taxi from there to our village. We are in smaller groups with a teacher. We will have a few hours of class each day, but will be expected to only speak in Hausa for the entire time. We will talk with people in the village, learn about their daily activities and lives, and lead small sessions on hand-washing and rehydration solutions. The immersion is essential because it gives us an idea of what village may be like and how much language we have to gain in order to be able to communicate. I am excited to overload on Hausa. There is going to be a lot of new verbs, vocab and grammar to learn, but, because I'm a complete dork, I can't wait to get started!!

Tabaski

20 Novembre 2010
Hello people!! I hope that everyone is well and that you're all getting excited for Thanksgiving that is just around the corner! Life has been good since my last post. We came back from demystification in Maradi and have been in Hamdallye in classes. Hausa language learning is going well. Recently, we have learned the vocabulary for money and how to bargain at the market, or kasuwa in Hausa. This past Wednesday the 17th was the Muslim holiday of Tabaski. It was exciting to be in Hamdallye for it. Here is a bit of history about the Tabaski holiday:
According to the Muslim story, Abraham was told by Allah to slaughter his son. Abraham had a strong faith, so he brought his oldest son, Ishmael, as a sacrifice to Allah. The angel, Gabriel, saw that Abraham was going to sacrifice his son, and so he exchanged Ishmael for a sheep. Abraham sacrificed a sheep and his son was saved. The holiday is a reminder of Abraham's faith to Allah.
In Hamdallye, our Wednesday morning began at nine o'clock. At this time, there is a whole-village prayer. We got dressed up and walked to the mosque, which is a large speaker outside on a hill. At the mosque, the Chief of Hamdallye led the prayer and everyone prayed together. I have never seen so many people pray at the same time. After that, everyone walks back to their home to slaughter a sheep. In our home, our host dad Loyola and the eldest son, Abdu, slaughtered the sheep. All parts of the sheep are utilized or eaten in some way. The insides are cooked and eaten first. We had those for lunch with rice and meat sauce :). Yum! The rest of the sheep is slowly cooked, or smoked, over a fire for the rest of the afternoon. The meat is cooked all the way through and will last the whole family for the next week or so. It was interesting to walk around the village and see all the sheep being cooked outside. Ellie and I walked around and visited other trainees during the afternoon. We said "Barka da Salla" to everyone we say which means "Greeting on the holiday!" The response is "Barka kaddai" or "Greetings to all!"
On Thursday morning, the children of each household take meat and bring it to friends, family and poor people in the village. The holiday is not only about slaughtering a sheep and remembering the story of Abraham, but it is a reminder to give to the poor and be thankful for what you have. In a way, the holiday reminded me of Thanksgiving, except the turkey is replaced with a sheep or two. Also, when children in the village say "Barka da Salla", we gave them candy. Similar to Halloween and trick-or-treating in that sense. The kids had the whole week off of school and spend time in the home with their families.
...For health training this week, we learned about health providers and moringa. Health providers in this country are very different from the US. Because it is rare for people to go to college and earn degrees in healthcare, the majority of training is taught to providers in the clinic or health hut. The training is informal. They are taught how to consult with pregnant women, teach about nutrition, etc. We have visited two local health clinics, one in Hamdallye, one in the neighboring village of Barchewal. The clinic in Barchewal was staffed by one woman who provides all the consults, medicines and education for people who come by. The Hamdallye clinic is staffed by several women. She said that their busiest time of year is during the rainy season, when a large number of people get malaria. During that busy time, they average 200 consults a day. During the slowest time of year, now, they average 20 consults a day; the majority of consultations with pregnant women to give them iron and vitamins. In our villages, we will most likely have a health hut and not a clinic, but it was still important to see how the clinics run. We also learned about Moringa. It is known as "the miracle tree" because it is a quickly-growing tree that doesn't need a lot of water or fertile soil to flourish. The leaves of the moringa tree have, gram for gram, more potassium than bananas, more iron than spinach, more calcium than milk, and more Vitamin A than carrots. In Niger, the most common method of eating moringa leaves is to boil them for an hour and add them to couscous. Unfortunately, they lose the majority of their nutritional value when boiled. So, when we go to our villages, one of our projects is going to be education about how to harvest and prepare moringa in order to achieve the greatest nutrition from the leaves.
...Our host fam is doing well. They were all happy to have this whole week off from school and to spend time playing and working around the house. For Tabaski, our host dad constructed "walls" in the compound. The material was something similar to bamboo, but he roped them together and made walls around the house. It's difficult to explain, but it looks really cool. For Tabaski, Ellie and I gave our fam dates that we bought at the market. And we gave the kiddos candies when they said "Barka da Salla!"

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

First post in Niger :)

5 November 2010
Hello everyoneeeee! Sannu! Ina kwana? That means "Hello, how are you?" in Hausa. I am currently at the Peace Corps training site in Hamdallye. Our group of 43 flew into Niamey, Niger on Friday, October 22nd. Here is a recap of the training and experiences since then:

Saturday: Orientation about the training site and welcome from the Peace Corps Country Director, Valerie. Introduction to medical by the Peace Corps Medical Officer, Walter. We adore Walter, even though he gives us lots of shots :) (I've had five thus far since arriving). The afternoon on the first day was very busy. We had medical interviews to talk about what antimalarial medicine we will be on and ways to keep us healthy with the change in diet and environment. Then we had interviews with the person in charge of our sector. Our "stage" of 43 people has two sectors: CHA and FARM. CHA stands for Community Health Agent (that's me) and FARM represents Forest Agriculture Resource Management. Also, during that afternoon, we had a cultural fair which featured many local people to show us different traditions and customs we will be exposed to in Hamdallye and our sites. The fair included various types of food that we will recognize as well as singing and dancing and how to pound millet. The last event of the afternoon was a language interview. I interviewed to test my French-speaking skills. I passed :) which means I've retained French from high school. In the evening we had din and a free night for sleep catch-up and journal writing/playing cards.

Sunday: The morning began with a pre-service training overview so that we all could get a grasp of what was going to happen over the next 70-or-so days until swear-in as a volunteer. We then drove into Hamdallye to meet with the Chief de Canton, or the city king. He is the primary social figure and acts as the correspondent between the Nigerien government and the people of Hamdallye. He also acts as a lawyer figure. If two people are fighting about land or livestock or business matters in the village, they both approach him and settles their arguement by listening to both sides of the issue and determining what happened. Also, if people want to get divorced, he assists them to make that motion happen. It is a grand honor to meet with him and we all introduced ourselves to him and shook his hands. In the morning, we also learned what language we would be studying based on the previous day's interviews. Our group is factioned into Hausa and Zarma. It is estimated that 85% of Nigeriens speak Hausa, so the majority of us will be learning that language (myself included woot woot). But there are some villages that we will be volunteering where the people primarily speak Zarma, thus some in the group is learning that language. Our first class was good and gave us a chance to learn basic greetings before meeting our host family's in the afternoon. We had a host family debriefing following language class, and then got picked up by a host parent. We are staying alone or with a roommate in one of four village surrounding the training site: Hamdallye, Fandoga, Barchewal or Abaka. Tghe majority of us are staying in Hamdallye because that's where the most Hausa families are :). My roomie is a gal named Ellie from the Boston area. At first, I kinda wanted to be alone with my fam to better learn the language and have my personal space. Since living together, though, we have been so grateful to have each other for support, understanding what our fam is saying to us, and for borrowing each other's things. Our host mom, Hinda, picked us up at the training site and brought us back home for the evening.

Monday: CORE day, which means we were at the training site again for the whole day. In the morning we had a debriefing about our first night with host families. We then had an extensive medical session about getting sick, food hygiene and water filtration. We covered a lot of necessary information and learned how to filter our own water and what food to eat to maximize our vitamin intake. And what foods to stay away from (unwashed vegetables, "street food", unpasteurized milk). In the afternoon, we talked about learning objectives and what we will learn through sessions in the upcoming weeks that will prepare us culturally for living in Niger.

Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday: non-CORE days, which means that we stay in Hamdallye for classes. For language classes, we are split into groups of either two or three people and are taught Hausa/Zarma by a native speaker. In class with me are Jacob and Yaa. We have class at Yaa's house. This first week our teacher is Mai-Moussa. Each week the teachers will rotate. We learn a lot but we have some fun, too. Yaa and Jacob are always making fun of me because they say I'm too serious about the language work. What's new, right? We learned greetings, basic vocab, forming questions and more recently, wants and needs. Hausa is fascinating to learn. For years and years, the language was never recorded until it became a French colony. So many of the sounds in the words have no Roman alphebatical equivalent, which makes for interesting lessons. And some words, although to us appear to sound the same, mean entirely different things. It is vital for us to learn the language in these weeks at training. The most important part of our volunteer service is begin accepted into our community. Or "integrating". If I had a dime, or 10 CFA if you will, for every time I heard "you need to INTEGRATE", I would be a millionaire. That is where the language becomes so important. When I move to my volunteer site on January 1st, I must be able to speak at an intermediate-medium Hausa level in Peace Corps terms. Personally though, I want to be better than that. To communicate with the people in my village and earn a mutual respect, I need to be able to converse with people on a level higher than simple greetings and questions. On each of these three days, we had language for 6 hours total. In the evenings, we went home to our host families and talked with them and ate food. Food in host homes usually consists of a grain (rice, sourgum not sure about the spelling on that, maize or millet) with a sauce (tomato, meat or ochre based). Our host father, Loyola, makes tea for us almost every night. It is very sweet and strong :), so Ellie and I have to be careful about drinking it too late because we don't want to stay up all night. We are fortunate that Loyola is a "Francais formateur" so he is fluent in French. We have been trying to talk to our host mom Hinda in Hausa mostly but when we need something we ask Loyola in French. The French has definetly been coming in handy. it shocked me how quick it has come back considering I haven't learned any new material since high school (Thanks U-32!!). Loyola has two wives, Hinda and Zanabu. They are both very nice. Zanabu speaks Zarma so it is more difficult to communicate with her. It is very common for men to have multiple wives in this Muslin culture. The more wives a man has is viewed as a positive thing and proves that he has a good job and can support his wives and children. Zanabu has one child, Lamine. Hinda has five children: Abdu, Aisha, Abdu Raham, Saminou and Razaac (from oldest to youngest). Razaac is Ellie's favorite kid and my fave is Saminou. They are so cute and lovable. It is nice to come home after a day of language lessons and destress by playing with the kids. All of the kids, minus the youngest (Razaac and Lamine) attend school. It is a nightly ritual after din to study. The kids all get out their school notebooks and practice by flashlight/one overhead light. Loyola assists with the French. Ellie and I assist with...guess...English. They assist us with Hausa :). It is nice to practice languages together. Loyola told Ellie and I that if we have a free weekday, he will take us to school with him. That would be great to see what his classroom is like and how the lessons are similar/different from those in the USA (especially Berlin Elem)!

Friday: CORE day. Safety and Security discussion in the morning followed by malaria medical session. The S&S discussion was great and taught us tools on how to minimize risks and keep ourselves safe. For the most part, these tools are common sense: use the buddy system, don't stay out late at night, know your surroundings. These lessons are useful anywhere. The biggest thing that was stressed was, once again, INTEGRATE! If we integrate and have a strong presence in our volunteer village, then everyone will watch out for us. In the afternoon, we had two hours of language followed by sector meetings. In our CHA sector meeting, we designed plans for what we need to learn in order to follow the Ministry of Health's goals for health development in Niger. These goals are: 1. Maternal Nutrition, 2. Child Nutrition, 3. Disease Prevention and Treatment.

Saturday: Language for four hours in the morning, followed by a free afternoon. For the free afternoon, Ellie and I spent time with our host family as well as relaxed and read.

Sunday: FREE DAY! Happy Halloween :) Ellie and I spent a lot of time cleaning our gida (thatch roof home that we keep all our belongings in). We didn't have a chance to thoroughly clean and organize our belongings until this time. It felt nice to clean and prioritize what we need in the upcoming weeks and what can remain in the suitcase until a later time. For the rest of the day, we took some walks around Hamdallye to visit friends and spent time with our host family playing games and reading.
Looking ahead in our schedule, most weekdays for the rest of training will be similar to those described in my first week. Here and there variations will occur I'll talk about those individually.

Monday 1 Novembre: Language day as well as start our own gardening plots. Even though the majority of us are health volunteers, we each are given a gardening plot to use for the duration of pre-service training. All the health and FARM volunteers worked together to prepare the soil for plantation. Ellie and I have plots next to each other, plus a third for our family so we can all plant things together. It felt really good to do some manual labor and get our hands dirty, literally, in manure to mix with our sandy soil. The smell reminded me of Vermont a lil bit. One of the language teachers, Ila, helped Ellie and I with our plots. Maybe we looked helpless :) and like we couldn't tow the soil on our own. We've been good about watering our soil, and are looking forward to planting next week.

Wednesday 3 Novembre et Thursday 4 Novembre focused on PACA, which stands for Participatory Analytical Community Action, or in other words, How to Develop Projects in Your Village. We learned how to conduct a meeting in our village in order to assess what the villages need the most and thus can conduct projects that will yield the greatest benefit. It was extensive training and important to learn about.

Friday 5 Novembre: The day was very exciting because the new Ambassador to Niger from the United States came to visit. Her name is Lisa Williams. It was great to hear about her career in the foreign service. She has been to so many different countries representing the United States. She will be at the US Embassy for the next two years that we are here and she welcomed us to the embassy whenever we would like. She said she's very thankful for what we're going for Niger and for the continued service that Peace Corps does in this country.

Saturday November 6 through Wednesday November 10: Demystification. Demyst is an opportunity for trainees to stay at current volunteer's homes to see what life as a volunteer is like. Myself and four other people traveled 11 hours by bus to the eastern city of Maradi. We are visiting a married couple named Alice and Jesse. Their home is so nice; they have electricity and running water. Most likely, none of us will have this at our villages, but we have been making American food like mac and cheese and fajitas. Ha fajitas aren't really American! Oh well! But yes it has been a nice change of pace and shows what life will be like when we are at our villages :)

As a general note, I am still very excited to be here. I feel like I've been talking a lot about what I've been DOING, which has been amazing, but not what I've been FEELING. It is really great to be here and spent time with our host family to get a feel for a typical Nigerien family. It has been hot. I have a thermometer on my clock, and one day this week, the low temperature was 72 and the high was 121. The night time cool of 72 feels very cold and I am fortunate that I brought a nice sleeping bag. One of the days, the thermometer just read H for high because the temperature was above like 130 and wouldn't read it anymore. That's all for now! I miss you all! Talk to ya soon!